Go To Mount Kenya has qualified professional guides who are trained to lead on rock climbing expeditions to Batian and Nelion on Mount Kenya. The Guides have undergone training with NOLS Africa.Anybody intending to Summit Mt Kenya (Batian and Nelion) need to be 5.9 American Standard climber or hard server European standard. You need at least two days plus normal hiking time for Batian or Nelion.
Climbing Mount Kenya is serious and it is important to acclimatize well before tackling the main summit.
7 Day Mt Kenya Rock climbing via the North Face Standard Route.
The North Face itinerary is suitable for the summer to fall (June – Sept) climbing season when the North Face of the peak is relatively snow-free and climbing conditions are best.
Day 1: Nairobi – Judmeire Camp (3400 M)
After pick up in Nairobi you drive to the Sirimon Park gate (2660m). From the gate, you trek up through magnificent montane forest, bamboo and giant heather zone before reaching the high altitude moorland and to your first hut (judmeire camp) in time for lunch.
Afternoon at leisure giving way for Dinner and overnight at the camp.
This is a gentle trek that takes 3 – 4 hrs gaining an elevation of 680m.
Day 2: Judmeire Camp – Shipton Camp (4236m)
Early morning start through Ontulili River up the spectacular Mackinders valley via Liki North ridge with picnic lunch en route arriving in Shipton camp in 7 hrs. This camp is a surreal setting below the towering peaks and glacier. Resident population is of Rock Hyrax and sunbirds.
Dinner and overnight at the camp.
Day 3: Shipton – Mackinder's Camp (4200m)
For better acclimatization you kick off your peak circuit trek stretching 2 days. Today you go anticlockwise, first through Hausberg Col at 4591m, and then pass between Oblong and Hausberg Tarns.
Then you climb up to Nanyuki and Two Tarns before descending to Mackinder's Camp on the South Western side of the peak, at about 4300 meters for dinner and overnight.
Day 4: Mackinder's Camp – Point Lenana (4985m) – Shipton's Camp (4236m)
You rise early and continue your trek up to Top Hut (Austrian Hut) 4800m. From this Hut you make a final short ascent of Point Lenana, 4985m,. Point Lenana is the common trekker's Mount Kenya " Summit ". From this summit you then go straight down the Northwest side back to Shipton's Camp, passing Harris Tarn.
Day 5: Shipton – Batian (5199m) – Shipton (Climbing Day)
Ascent of Batian by the North Face Standard Route. Starting in the early morning dark, usually between 4 and 5 am, you may climb the first couple of pitches by headlamp.
The route initially follows a wide couloir which you ascend for some 7 pitches, never harder than 5.7. A bit of easy scrambling brings us to the Amphitheater, a small basin of easy rock part way up the route. Ideally we arrive here by about 7:30 or so, enjoying a short break. Above this is the crux of the route, Firmin's Tower. There are about 3 difficult pitches, all fairly short, but all in the V grade. Above this, easier terrain leads to a few more pitches and, finally, the west ridge. From this point, we continue on easy, but still exposed, rock to Shipton's Notch, a prominent gash in the summit ridge. Another pitch, then mixed 4th and easy 5th class rock leads to the airy summit of Batian.
You'll then descend via the same route hopefully hitting Shipton's Camp before evening dusk for dinner and overnight.
Day 6: Shipton' s Camp – Meru Mt Kenya Bandas Lodge.
After breakfast your trek out begins and you hike down by the Scenic Chogoria Route . Your trek out begins with a climb up to Simba Col (where porters once swore they saw a lion, hence the name) then a quick descent to the halls Tarns. From here we follow the backbone of a ridge, overlooking the spectacular Gorges Valley . Loosing elevation fast you leave the high moorlands and enter into the forest belt that surrounds Mount Kenya . As you approach the cabins of Meru Mount Kenya Bandas (your destination for the night) you are most likely to spot Cape buffalo, Bush Buck, and tracks of other wild animals.
The Bandas are a welcome luxury!. With hot showers, a fine evening log fire, a BED!, without mentioning a cold beer!.
Day 7: Bandas Lodge – Chogoria – Nairobi
After breakfast you hike the first hour or so enjoying the bamboo forest. We often see Elephant tracks, and signs of many other wild animals. Continue further down up to the 10 kilometer mark where you'll be picked up by a 4 by 4 wheel drive vehicle and continue the drive to Chogoria town and switch to another comfortable vehicle for transfer to your Nairobi.
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